Fuchsia cutting method

The fuchsia, also known as the bell, and the lantern flower, is a small evergreen shrub of the family Salicaceae. Native to high-altitude mountainous regions in Central and South America and New Zealand mountainous regions, it is also cultivated in various parts of China. Its colorful flowers and long flowering period are potted flowers that are popular among people. The fuchsias are generally not seeded, and they are mainly cuts. However, to master the essentials, the survival rate can generally reach over 95%.

1, cutting time

In addition to the dormancy period in the summer, the Inverted Clock can be cut and inserted as long as the temperature is appropriate, but it is better to use the annual November to early April in the coming year. Because this period of time is the peak season for plant growth, the cuttings with stronger vitality can be selected, and with cooler temperatures, the cuttings should not be rotted and the survival rate is high.

2, the choice of cuttings

Cuttings should be selected when they were born, not yet lignified shoots, preferably with tender tips, the length of the cuttings is generally 6 to 10 cm, the lower leaves should be cut off. It should be noted that when cuttings are cut, they must be cleaned with sterile scissors so that the cuttings are clean and tidy, and the cuttings must not be picked directly by hand.

3, preparation of cutting matrix and slotting machine

It is best to use a sieve of fine sand, but it must be washed and sterilized with boiling water. The slotting machine can be shallow or wooden, and it should be sprayed with 0.1% potassium permanganate solution in advance.

4, cutting method

The cuttings are first soaked in vitamin B12 for 20 minutes. A small bamboo stick is inserted into the sand to insert a small hole. Then the cuttings are inserted into the sand hole, and the depth is preferably 3 to 4 cm. The spacing of the cuttings should be kept at 8 About centimeters, in order to facilitate rooting after the basin. After the rake is inserted, pour one waft of water and cover with a plastic cloth to keep the humidity of the cleaver bed.

5, post-insertion management

After cutting, the insertion bed should be placed in a room where there is astigmatism. It is not possible to directly receive sunlight, and the room temperature is maintained at about 20 degrees Celsius. After a week, it can receive some light. After the cutting, the water should be sprayed into the insertion slot frequently. In winter, it should be sprayed once a day. In the spring, it should be sprayed once every morning and evening so that the humidity in the insertion slot can be kept above 80%. In winter, rooting usually occurs in about 25 days, and it takes 20 days in spring to take root.

6. Seedling pots

After the roots of cuttings are planted, the pots should be put on the basin in time, and the sandy soil with no fertilizer should be applied in the basin soil. Pots and cultivated soils should be disinfected. The pelvic floor should be used to make drainage layers with broken pots. When transplanting, use a small bamboo spatula to gently excavate the seedlings and put them into small pits that have been dug in advance. Put the roots in the wells and put them in place. Do not press the soil with your hand to avoid excessive force and damage the root seedlings. After the seedlings are well planted, they must be poured with water immediately to make the soil dense, and then put the pots in shady places to support them. If there is no wilting in the leaves after three days, they can receive light, and after a month, they will apply some liquid fertilizer. Enter normal management.

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